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Hourglass silhouettes and the return of ’90s supermodels were just a few of the highlights from the Italian city.
Who did Gucci best? That was the question of Milan Fashion Week Spring 2024.
First up was Peter Hawkings, the newly appointed creative director of Tom Ford. He worked alongside the namesake designer for over 25 years, and you can certainly tell. The collection was an ode to Ford’s heyday at Gucci in the ’90s: slinky dresses, sexy separates and velvet suits.
A few days later came the actual Gucci presentation, now spearheaded by Sabato De Sarno. Hot off the heels of former creative director Alessandro Michele’s iconic reign, De Sarno returned to the brand’s scantily clad roots. Hemlines were almost hip length, necklines dipped to belly buttons and tantalizing textures were used throughout. Sound familiar?
While the fashion world hotly debated who had the better debut, Mathieu Blazy at Bottega Veneta continued to prove why he’s the current golden child. Simply put, the craftsmanship is incredible. The way Blazy manipulates leather is sure to be studied for years, as he proved with his last collection’s “jeans.” This time, he went more adventurous, recreating raffia, knit and pompoms with what appears to be luxurious leathers (this has yet to be confirmed but is very likely).
Other highlights included the celebration of hourglass silhouettes, short shorts and white collared shirts. Plus a few (or many!) friendly faces. See for yourself as we round up the must-see moments from Milan Fashion Week Spring 2024 below.
The Attico: Big comfy couches
For The Attico’s first-ever runway show, they brought the inside out. The Italian cool-girl brand shut down a residential street in western Milan’s Arco della Pace neighbourhood and lined the road with leather couches. What followed was 42 looks begging to be worn at the VMAs. Think silver pants, chainmail dresses and feather crop tops.
Avavav: This is a disaster
When Stockholm-born designer Beate Karlsson titled Avavav’s Spring 2024 collection “No Time to Design, No Time to Explain,” she wasn’t kidding. The runway show was a hyperbolized depiction of rushing out the door when you’re not quite ready. Some models ran frantically down the catwalk, others were seemingly pushed out in front of the crowd. With mascara tears smeared on their faces, they stomped around in dishevelled, unfinished outfits. From a sloppy Post-it suit to hoodies scribbled with Sharpie, the craftsmanship was pretty terrible, and that’s the point. Overall, it was a nod to unrealistic expectations and forgotten deadlines — and what’s more real than that?
Fendi: Front row reunion
If you haven’t binged Apple’s new docu-series, The Super Models, consider Fendi’s front row the next best thing (but really, what’s taking you so long?!). Linda Evangelista, Naomi Campbell, Kate Moss and Amber Valletta were all spotted chatting away like old-school chums —which, in a way, they are. Also adding to the star-studded affair was Cara Delevigne, Demi Moore and Gwendoline Christie. Then, on the runway, creative director Kim Jones was inspired by Karl Lagerfeld’s Spring 1991 show for the brand (very fitting considering the A-list audience) and presented a colourful collection of contemporary clothing for the modern working Roman woman.
Max Mara: Women at work
A quick history lesson: During World War I and II, The Women’s Land Army recruited nearly 80,000 females to help farm while the men were away. For Max Mara’s Spring 2024 collection, creative director Ian Griffin used these legendary women as his muses and took them into the 21st century. Dresses were made practical with pockets and front zippers. Work jackets were elevated with jewel-like hues. And collars were a staple on almost every garment.
Moschino: This is 40
Moschino has always had Peter Pan syndrome. Over four decades, the Italian brand has become the dictionary definition of camp, creating clothes inspired by hot dogs, markers, dolls and more. So, Moschino went modest —in a move that surprised everyone — for its 40th anniversary. The brand enlisted four stylists (longtime creative director Jeremy Scott left last season) to pull from founder Franco Moschino’s archive and reinterpret them for today. The result was a primarily black-and-white lineup that ranged from ’90s minimalism to Marie Antoinette madness.
Prada: Oversized who?
Time of death for the oversized blazer: September 21, 2023, at 2 pm GST, when Prada’s Spring 2024 collection went down the runway. Yes, the big shoulder is still very much present, but these blazers have traded in their ’80s silhouettes for the more ladylike “New Look” of the ’50s. Waists are snatched, skirts are fringed, and sleeves are long.
Versace: Claudia Schiffer returns
Surely, Claudia Schiffer is experiencing deja vu. After all, very few models can say they’ve walked in the same show 30 years later. This season, Versace paid homage to its Fall 1995 collection and invited the supermodel to repeat her runway appearance. The show was considered an outlier for the brand at the time, as it relied on overly ladylike tropes. The same can also be said of Spring 2024 but with a few significant differences. Pants? Who needs them? It’s all about the short — pj shorts, that is. Honourable mentions also go to the checkered shift dresses we’re sure to see on every influencer next season.
With files from Natalie Michie